What is the Difference Between a Digital Pattern and a Measurement Chart and Which is Best?
We explain the difference between the two and why a custom pattern is so much better. We are often asked 'Can I send you my measurement charts?' and the short answer is no.
We tend to steer clear of measurement charts for a few reasons:
1. Full digital pattern creation combines the expertise of industry-trained pattern cutters (ours are brilliant at H&E) who not only measure your fit reference garments but also scan them in to get the full scope of the garment shape. Then a custom digital pattern is created (using pattern cutting software) with no ambiguous measurement points (have a little look at the video below).
2. Measurement charts are generally created by measuring a garment that you already have (and love the fit of) and making any adaptions to fit the requirements of your design. Most 'tech packing' services allow a designer to do this however a designer is rarely trained to industry standard to take these measurements. For example I (Joss owner of H&E) have been a designer for over 16 years and I still do not take full measurements! Garment measurement should only ever be taken by a trained garment developer (this is how it's done in industry for large brands). Of course little measurements like cuff / waistband height are perfectly fine for a designer to do but nothing more complex!
A great example is this image a client sent recently of a coat measurement (see below). The client told us the half chest measurement had been taken by their designer and it was 22" however when our developer took the same measurement the actual measurement was 21". Simply by our developer properly measuring the garment it saved a disastrous sample being made that would have been a total (front & back circumference) of 2" (around 5cm) out.
3. Most manufacturers request measurement charts but the main reason is so they can find a close pre-existing block pattern that they have and manipulate that to fit the core measurements you have given (that way you can't suggest the sample is not to the size requested). It never produces good shapes for your sample, its just a shortcut where manufacturers can make you keep paying for samples. This extends the process massively and becomes really costly for you!
Measurement charts do some uses!
Having said all of this measurement charts do have a very good use! Once we have been through sampling for each new design (and worked out all the kinks) you will then commit to bulk production at which point we provide a garment measurement chart including all of your sizing for use on your website as once you have a great base fit it's then very easy to 'grade' (make bigger or smaller) for your other sizes.
How Do I Get a Custom Digital Pattern Made?
At Hook and you have two options, you can of course have completely custom digital patterns created from anything you already own/purchase that you love the fit of but the quickest, easiest, cheapest way to design is to pick from our pre-developed shapes. These are not stock items – they are just perfected shapes to give you a guide. You can change colour / fabric / add graphics/alter shapes slightly etc. All these shapes are developed from the big brands popular shapes like Palm Angels, Represent, Ralph Lauren, Gucci, Fear of God - we have added a bit of H&E magic into the base shapes and made really cool bases to help you out!
Using these shapes dramatically reduces your pattern cutting costs as the patterns are already done.
CLICK HERE TO SEE OUR PRE-DEVELOPED GARMENTS RANGE!
Have a little gander here too:
What are the next steps?
Once you've decided which option you want to go for, the next step in your journey to making great clothing would be to get your tech packs made properly.
At Hook and Eye UK, we make exceptional tech packs (just saying!) that are designed specifically to help brands like yours. Just click here if you'd like book a tech pack and design session with us.
Once your tech packs have been designed, you'll then be ready to get clothing samples made - so you might like to read our guide on how to get your clothing samples made to a higher standard whilst saving money in the process.
Hope that helps!
Love, Joss H&E xx
P.s. If you'd like some guidance from us on your next clothing collection and you're new to Hook and Eye UK simply fill in our enquiry form here. The form will guide you through steps to see if we can help you and then tell you exactly how to contact us.
