Turning a designer’s idea into a finished garment is a team effort. Two job titles often confused are designer and garment developer — but their roles are distinct and complementary. At Hook & Eye UK we follow a clear, proven workflow: designers create the tech packs and define the creative vision; garment developers take that pack and manage the technical path to sampling and production. The result is better-fitting garments, fewer costly mistakes, and a smoother route to bulk manufacture.
Designer vs Garment Developer — who does what?
Designer (creates the tech pack)
The designer is responsible for the creative concept and for producing the tech pack in collaboration with the client. At Hook & Eye UK this happens in a live Tech Pack & Design Session where the designer converts sketches, fit references and creative notes into a full, production-ready tech pack — including line drawings, fabric & trim choices, construction notes and logo/graphics guidance. These tech packs are the blueprint for sampling and manufacturing and are produced in session, so the client leaves with a clear, usable specification.
Garment Developer (develops the design into production)
A garment developer takes the designer’s tech pack and drives the technical development: pattern creation (or adapting pre-developed shapes), fit and grading, sampling management, liaison with factories, quality control and production oversight. Developers translate creative intent into correct patterns, construction methods and production-ready documentation, then oversee sampling, adjustments and the pre-production checks that protect quality and cost. This role is both technical and managerial — a bridge between design and the factory floor.
What garment developers do — a practical list
Garment developers at Hook & Eye combine technical skill with project management. Their duties include:
- Converting designer tech packs into production-ready patterns and instructions.
- Managing fabric and trim sourcing in partnership with our studio library and suppliers.
- Creating coded digital graphic files for sampling.
- Running fit sessions and updating tech packs live to capture required adjustments.
- Liaising with overseas factories to ensure manufacturers follow the tech pack and construction guides.
- Overseeing sampling, pre-production samples, bulk production quality checks and DDP shipping arrangements.
Skills Every Garment Developer Needs
To excel in this role, garment developers must possess a diverse skill set that combines creativity with technical knowledge.
1. Understanding of Garment Construction
A strong grasp of garment construction techniques is essential. This knowledge enables developers to communicate effectively with manufacturers and troubleshoot any issues that may arise during production.
2. Technical Drawing and CAD Skills
Proficiency in technical drawing and computer-aided design (CAD) software is crucial for creating (and updating) accurate tech packs and visual representations of garments.
3. Communication and Project Management
Effective communication skills are vital for collaborating with designers, manufacturers, and other stakeholders. Additionally, project management skills help garment developers keep projects on track and within budget.
4. Knowledge of Apparel Production Processes
A comprehensive understanding of the apparel production process, from sourcing materials to final quality checks, is essential for ensuring a smooth development cycle.
5. Pattern Cutting / Measurement Chart Expertise
The best garment developers are trained pattern cutters, which enhances their ability to create well-fitting garments, understand the intricacies of garment construction and produce accurate measurement charts. Hook & Eye emphasizes digital pattern creation (which are much better than initial ambiguous measurement charts) — digital patterns are created by a combination of measuring and scanning fit references. Once sampling and fit are finalised, a garment measurement chart for your sizes is produced.
The Garment Development Process at Hook & Eye
The journey of a garment from concept to production involves several key stages, each requiring the expertise of a garment developer.
1. Tech Pack & Design Session (Designer-led)
Book a one-to-one session (online or in-studio). The designer builds the tech pack live with you, covering line drawings, fabrics, trims and any base shape selection (you can choose from our pre-developed shapes if you prefer). At the end of the session you receive a full tech pack that’s ready for sampling.
2. Costing and Scheduling (behind the scenes)
After the tech pack is complete, Hook & Eye sources sampling & bulk production costs and presents transparent pricing and DDP (delivered duties paid) shipping options. This step usually takes around a week depending on complexity.
3. Sampling (Developer-led)
Once the sampling invoice is paid, the developer coordinates pattern creation (or uses a pre-developed base), coding & sizing of digital graphics, and the sampling construction guide. Samples are produced by our manufacturing partners and returned to our UK office for checking before being sent to you. Typical sample turnaround is about 4–8 weeks.
4. Development Session (Developer-led fit & tweaks)
You receive samples and then attend a free development session with a developer. During this session the team records fit adjustments and updates the tech pack. This step is crucial — it ensures the tech pack reflects final fit and construction instructions before pre-production.
5. Pre-Production & Bulk Manufacture
After you sign off and make the first bulk payment (60% deposit), a free pre-production (PP) sample can be provided to check minor tweaks. PP samples commonly take 3–5 weeks; full bulk production timelines are usually 3–8 weeks depending on scheduling and complexity. Your final invoice is sent (40% balance) and the last quality checks are made before shipping.
Conclusion
A garment developer is much more than a behind-the-scenes technician—they are a brand’s quality guardian. At Hook and Eye UK, our garment developers combine years of industry training with hands-on experience to guide brands from idea to execution. From refining tech packs to conducting live fit sessions and managing production, they ensure your garments are not only made—but made right.
Whether you’re a start-up or an established brand, partnering with Hook and Eye means working with developers who understand both the creative vision and the technical detail needed to bring garments to life.
Ready to take your designs from concept to high-quality production? Contact Hook and Eye UK today to work with our expert garment developers.
Hope you found this helpful,
H&E team :)
